<p>My name is Rob; I am a repeater from the 49th voyage.</p>

<p>During the past 12 years of my life, I have always wanted to do
Something Big for the earth, but have never settled down long enough
to do one thing.</p>

<p>I hoped during the 49th voyage, I would find something to do.</p>

<p>After Vietnam, I decided I would go to Vietnam.</p>

<p>After Sri Lanka, I decided I would go to Sri Lanka.</p>

<p>After meeting two guest speakers from Israel and Palestine, I decided
I would go there.</p>

<p>The speakers were both young women: Niveen from Jerusalem, and Eilat
from Tel Aviv. They were on the ship from Al-Aqaba Jordan to New York
City.</p>

<p>Niveen is Palestinian, and Eilat is Israeli.  They both oppose the
Israeli occupation of Palestine.</p>

<p>During the 49th voyage, they told us about the history and stories
about what life is like in the area.  I basically couldn't believe
what they were saying could be true.</p>

<p>When listening to their stories, I became quite sympathetic to the
Palestinian side.</p>

<p>They said basically the Israelis were unfairly stealing land from the
Palestinians, and occupying the territory.</p>

<p>I heard about road closures, home demolitions, city borders controlled
like country borders; and a huge wall being built around Palestine.</p>

<p>I couldn't believe these things were happening; Niveen said I should
come visit and see for myself.</p>

<p>But first, where is Palestine???</p>

<p>((Display map of the world, zoom in to Palestine until we can see
Ramallah.))</p>

<p>- - - -</p>

<p>Part of me thought I could make a difference in the region.</p>

<p>I actually had a dream that I helped bring some people together, and
helped facilitate a resolution to their differences.</p>

<p>This was a good omen, so I was optimistic about my chances once I
arrived.</p>

<p>But, I didn't really know what I could *do* in Palestine, so I looked
on the internet, and found International Solidarity Movement, or ISM.</p>

<p>As a way to suppport Palestinians, they invited people to come pick
olives between mid October and mid November.</p>

<p>That sounded like something I could do, and fit my schedule nicely; I
wanted to ride 52nd PB voyage.  I would be back in time for the
voyage.</p>

<p>Through the ISM website, I decided to stay at the Faisal Hostel, which
is in Jerusalem.</p>

<p>The website said "make your way to Jerusalem.  The Faisal is across
the street from Damascus Gate in the old city."  That sounded easy
enough to me!</p>

<p>(( 1 picture of modern airport ))</p>

<p>I was flat nervous with all the activity in the shuttle from the
airport to Jerusalem.</p>

<p>I didn't know who I could trust.</p>

<p>I didn't know if I was safe.</p>

<p>I just kept quiet and tried not to look at the strange clothing and
fashion.  I definitely didn't take any pictures, but I wanted to.</p>

<p>I told the driver I wanted to go to Damascus Gate in Jerusalem, but he
didn't know what I meant.</p>

<p>The name is different in Arabic, so it took a lot of discussion to
figure out where I needed to go.</p>

<p>I was dropped off in a street, and had no real idea where to go.  I
asked a guy, but he didn't understand me.</p>

<p>Two people who looked western walked by.  I asked if they knew where
the Faisal was.  Magically, they lived there, and led me right to it.</p>

<p>((3 pictures from Faisal))</p>

<p>"Hisham will love you, and you will love Hisham."</p>

<p>Even in the hostel I didn't know who I could talk to.  I met the
manager, Hisham, and told him I was curious about ISM.  He said, "I am
a coordinator."</p>

<p>It turns out, the Faisal hostel is where many many activists stay. If
you are interested in going, I definitely recommend the Faisal.</p>

<p>It's across the street from Damascus Gate in the old city of Jerusalem.</p>

<p>Before doing anything with ISM, one has to attend ISM training, which
is held once per week.  I spent two or three days in the hostel and
sort of exploring the area, while waiting for the training.</p>

<p>(( Pictures until 2 guys in hats facing each other ))</p>

<p>Everything seemed normal.</p>

<p>(( 2 pictures of soldiers with guns ))</p>

<p>But otherwise normal, right?</p>

<p>(( 3 Pictures of people with guns ))</p>

<p>How bizarre that it's so normal to have an army in the city.</p>

<p>The differences between the two halves of the city is striking, in
some ways.  West side is clean.  East side is full of rubbish.</p>

<p>(( 3 pics from near Damascus Gate ))</p>

<p>Super cramped, much dirtier; this is the Palestinian quarter of Jerusalem.</p>

<p>---</p>

<p>There were also tourist places in the old city of Jerusalem.</p>

<p>((Wailing Wall, T-shirts))</p>

<p>When it was time for the ISM training, I heard we would see the wall.</p>

<p>(( until banksy balloon picture ))</p>

<p>To get to the ISM training, we had to go through a checkpoint.</p>

<p>The permanent checkpoints have names.  This one is called Qalandia.</p>

<p>(( pictures of Qalandia until 'mon back guy))</p>

<p>The ISM training had *nothing* to do with picking olives.</p>

<pre>It talked about 
the muslim culture
our safety
affinity groups
weapons used by Israeli soldiers
how to protect ourselves from tear gas
how to protect ourselves from stun grenades
our legal rights
stories of things that have happened
</pre>

<p>I decided I wasn't so keen on working with ISM.  I was afraid.</p>

<p>----</p>

<p>we also got to see Arafat's tomb.</p>

<p>(( 2 pictures of Arafat's tomb ))</p>

<p>for some reason, on the way back to Jerusalem, after going through
Qalandia, there is a checkpoint on the highway.  We don't go through a
checkpoint on the way to Ramallah; I'm not sure why.  It's easy for
cars to go through, though.</p>

<p>(( 1 easy checkpoint picture ))</p>

<p>I basically went back to Faisal, and then to Palestine Vision, the
organization through which Niveen came to be on Peace Boat.  I met a
man named Ramy, who is a part time PB staff, I think.</p>

<p>Palestinian vision gave me an opportunity to visit Nablus, which is here:</p>

<p>(( 1 map of Jerusalem area ))</p>

<p>(( Nablus pics until night view ))</p>

<p>---------------------</p>

<p>Basically, over the past 10,000 years, this area of the world has
been sought by many different countries because of its location at
the junction of three continents.</p>

<p>10,000 years ago a city called Jericho was created; it's the oldest
city that has been continuously inhabited.</p>

<p>Jews didn't even exist until 6000 years later.  At one point the Jews
conquered the area, but were kicked out by the Romans in 135AD.  They
kept the idea of returning to this area, which they considered home.</p>

<p>For nearly 2000 years, Jews were persecuted all around the world,
culminating in the holocaust in Nazi Germany.  This gave a great deal
of world sympathy to Jews, and supported the idea of a Jewish nation.</p>
